La Stoppa ‘Macchiona’

La Stoppa ‘Macchiona’ –  A 50/50 blend of Barbera and Bonarda that stem from vineyards planted between 20 and 40 years ago on nutrient-poor clay soils. Basking in the blazing sun at 250 metres above sea-level, these vines absorb low levels of nitrogen but comparatively high amounts of phosphorous and potassium. All this jargon can be summated simply with the following: bottle age is a necessity that allows this cuveé to perform at its best. After eleven years, the 2012 vintage has developed a theatrical expressiveness that attacks all senses. Boisterous hints of leather, cacao and cinderblock swell impatiently over the bruised black plum and amarena cherry that lunge from glass to nostril. Smatterings of kirsch and mushroom straddle the palette as a somewhat volatile acidity seeps into the jowls; a mellow freshness precedes a warm, lingering finish. Balanced and uncannily alive.

Elena Pantaleoni owns this wonderful 58-ha organically-tended estate, wild herbs growing freely between the rows, free from chemical fertilisers, weed killers and pesticides. Originally bought by her father in 1973, the focus was initially on producing international style wines. Elena assumed control in 1991 and she and her partner, Giulio Armani replanted their vineyards with indigenous varietals and started using organic agriculture in 1996. They replanted 32ha of Barbera and Bonarda, as well as small amounts of other aromatic grapes. Achieving certification in 2008, they began implementing that same sustainability in their cellar, switching first to native yeasts. Gradually progressing to extended skin-macerations, no filtration and infinitesimal amounts of sulphur upon bottling, they thereby allow their wines to perform with distinction and pride. Time is both an aide and confidant on the La Stoppa estate, a priceless ingredient.

La Stoppa ‘Macchiona’ – much like Ms. Pantaleoni herself, this is a patient and contemplative wine that broadens both mind and horizons.