Hervé Villemade ‘Pivoine’

Hervé Villemade ‘Pivoine’ – an understated yet symphonic bottle of utter seduction, one which illuminates the many faces of Malbec. Côt is the Loire Valley colloquialism for this varietal; it somehow communicates the gentle hand with which Villemade’s venerable giggle-juice operates. This is the slender, sequin-dress counterpart to a grape which most know as being heavy-clad and brooding. A firework display of red fruit aromas waft forth from the bottle to let one understand with immediacy that a mere sip shall part the clouds. There is a well-directed sternness to this wine of course, a savoury spine reminiscent of wild mushrooms and black pepper. However, those tart red berries are supported by welcome aromas of violet, foxglove and red liquorice. As it tantalises the tongue, a cleansing, almost saline minerality emerges and carries the soft finish into one’s dreams.

Situated in Cour-Cheverny and spread across three municipalities, Villemade’s winery is a haven of viticultural creativity. This is a generational estate that has grown to 25ha since Herve’s grandfather installed the initial plantings in 1939. Having completed his oenological studies, he assumed control in 1995. Neighbouring winemakers such as Lapierre and Puzelat inspired Villemade to begin experimenting with organic viticulture. He was astonished by the low-intervention purity, henceforth disregarding synthetic products, machinated harvesting and large doses of sulphur. More than two decades later, Villemade has become a household name in “le monde du vin naturel”; his cuveés express a singular purity that gently transfixes and wholly dominates. .

Hervé Villemade ‘Pivoine’ – 30% of his latest vintage is amphora aged, augmenting that overarching cleansing quality. This is sultry elegance, a dance with the devil in the pale moonlight and simply un-put-down-able.