Hervé Souhaut ‘La Souteronne’

Hervé Souhaut ‘La Souteronne’ – a wistful, brooding expression of the Gamay grape that explores the sensational potential of this region. Meandering seductively up the River Doux to find solace in one’s lavishing grasp is this billowing cuveé. This is a wine that encourages contemplation; an elegantly poised dark horse that grasps one by the shoulders and shakes. Surging from the glass is a riptide of red and black fruit aromas; silken black plum mingling with tart red cherry. Hastily following on the palette are crushed blueberries and a wild herbal underbelly. Speckles of thyme and sage needle through the gamey undergrowth whilst touches of tomato leaf tickle the tongue. Wild mushroom leads into a long-lasting finish and the glass seems to re-fill itself. A suave exemplar of Gamay, harbouring just enough rusticity to keep one on their toes.

Domaine Romaneaux-Destezet was established in 1993 in the northern Ardéche hamlet of Arbelosc. Souhaut’s holdings are planted on acidic granite soils; the vines range in age from 50 to 100 years old. Having a mere five hectares to his name, his yields are low yet inarguably precise, with a dignified sense of place. He owns two vineyards situated just opposite the fabled Saint Joseph hills; due to their elevation and southern exposure, they are widely regarded as being among the finest wine-making sites. Towards the end of September, the grapes are manually harvested. Subsequently, they undergo an extremely long maceration at a low temperature. Finally, there occurs a six-month maturation in old oak casks on the fine lees. His wines are neither filtered nor fined.

Hervé Souhaut ‘La Souteronne’ – a terroir-driven, thunder-clap of a Gamay. Emphatically drinking with tireless grace, this is a prime example of respectfully cultivating the utmost potential of one’s region.