Jean Maupertuis ‘Neyrou’

Jean Maupertuis ‘Neyrou’ – seventy-five centilitres of unparalleled honesty. Structured and fastened in its identity, this is a wine that reflects the unerring passion required to explore the bottomless pits of exploration in this craft. Maupertuis produces solely harmonic expressions of that which he harvests. Moreover, he displays acute humility towards the terroir upon which he treads, tying together the distinct landscapes of his region in a beguiling fashion. Pulling the cork from this wine lets one know all of this with incredible immediacy. A Jackson-Pollock-esque explosion of red fruit bewitches the nose as a lively floral structure tickles and teases. Touches of violet and lavender set the olfactory system ablaze and one’s hand reaches for the glass in a seemingly automated manner. Suddenly, the palette is painted with fresh red cherry, bitter-sweet notes of raspberry and a straight spine of red liquorice. Cracked black pepper and a tip-toe of nettle slot perfectly into place. Jigsaw complete. Splendour reigns.

Maupertuis harvests the Pinot Noir from a vineyard where the soil composition dramatically shifts. It changes from sand to clay hastily, reminiscent of the interposing volcanic hills and the risen sea-bed of limestone. This starkly bipolar landscape offers Maupertuis priceless tools and he wields them with graceful affirmation. Particularly in regard to the vine-training which he conducts en lyre– double trellising with an empty space in the middle. This is a traditional trellising method that concentrates the grapes but does require additional hands-on labour. Due to the fact that mechanical work is impossible with en lyre, he harvests manually. Tending to 3.8 ha of vines in the Saint-Georges-sur-Allier and La Roche Noir commune, his vines range from 40 to 100+ years. Venerable and wise, much like their carer.

Jean Maupertuis ‘Neyrou’ – undoubtedly a quiet power that characterises and harmonises this region.