Domaine de la Borde ‘Côte de Caillot’

Domaine de la Borde ‘Côte de Caillot’ – We discuss purity, sense of place, identity, precision and truth fairly often here. We search for these qualities in ourselves, our philosophies and find solace when they appear in our wines. These tangible qualities can find physical and figurative form in just about anything yet for the anoraks, they generally occupy a 75 centilitre space. Overwhelmingly demonstrative of these buoys in a stormy sea are the wines of a 5.5ha estate called Domaine de la Borde. This Chardonnay cuveé beguiles and ensnares one’s senses. A tightly-wound array of fervent citrus aromas bewitches the nostrils as ripe stone and orchard fruits impress themselves upon you. Subtle biscuit-y tones bleed onto the palette and suddenly one is licking the Blarney Stone; a dense mineral structure morphs into a nuanced smokiness.

Planted on south-facing slopes at 500 metres above sea- level, the grapes are manually harvested. There occurs a partial de-stemming and a cold settling for 24 hours. Evidently, pateince and grace permeates through all of this estate’s processes. Subsequently, the wine is aged on fine lees for twelve months. Mareschel founded the estate in 2003; hailing from a cereal-growing family, he initialised his studies with agriculture. However, he quickly followed up with a wine-making diploma in Dijon and stints on Burgundian and Jurassian vineyards. He took over 3.5ha of healthy, 25 year-old vines and slowly expanded. By 2012, he had converted the entire estate to biodynamic precepts, aided by former mentor, François Duvivier of Domaines Marquis d’Angerville.

Domaine de la Borde ‘Côte de Caillot’ – a taut, stunningly structured expression of Jurassian terroir. An undeniably pride-fuelled cuveé of resolute honesty that communicates a staunch sense of place. Crunchy, golden plum fruits shall tickle and tantalise; one shall be rendered as inertly static as these settling grapes.